Ukha (Russian Clear Fish Soup)

Instructions

1. Fillet the fish, or ask your fishmonger to do it. Remove the gills from the heads, then rinse the heads, bones and tails well. Cut the fillets into 4 cm (1.5 inch) pieces and chill them.
2. Put the heads, bones and tails in a pot with the cold water, onion, celery, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Bring slowly to a boil, skim off the foam, then simmer very gently for 25 minutes.
3. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean pot and discard the solids. Bring it back to a gentle simmer.
4. Add the potatoes and carrots and cook for 12 minutes, until nearly tender.
5. Add the white fish pieces and the salmon and cook gently for 5 to 6 minutes, until opaque and flaking and the fish reaches 63°C (145°F).
6. Stir in the remaining salt, the herbs and the vodka if using. Turn off the heat, cover and rest for 10 minutes.
7. Ladle into warm bowls and serve with lemon wedges and rye bread.

Tips

• Fish heads and bones give the broth its body, so buy whole fish or ask for a bag of carcasses. Always remove the gills, which taste bitter.
• Keep the broth at a bare simmer, since hard boiling clouds it and breaks up the fish. A few spoonfuls of millet added with the potatoes make a thicker, more rustic soup.