Calulu (São Tomé Smoked Fish and Greens Stew)
In short: Smoked and fresh fish simmered with okra, eggplant, tomato, spinach and palm oil into a rich, savory stew, served with rice or funge. It takes about 1 h 20 min in total and makes 6 servings.
- Prep
- 25 min
- Cook
- 55 min
- Total
- 1 h 20 min
- Servings
- 6
- Difficulty
- Medium
- Calories
- 355 kcal
Calulu is the dish most associated with São Tomé and Príncipe: a slow-cooked stew of smoked and fresh fish with okra, eggplant, tomato, leafy greens and palm oil, seasoned with a whole hot chili. Traditional versions simmer for hours until everything melts into a dark, savory pot. This home version takes about an hour. Serve it with rice, funge (cassava porridge) or mashed green banana, which soak up the sauce.
Instructions
- Season the fresh fish with 1/2 tsp of the salt and keep it in the fridge.
- Heat the palm oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. Cook the onions for 6 minutes, until soft, then add the garlic for 1 minute.
- Add the tomatoes and cook for 6 minutes, until they break down into a thick paste.
- Add the water, smoked fish, eggplants, okra, whole chili, pepper and the remaining 1/2 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer partly covered for 25 minutes, until the eggplant is tender.
- Lay the fresh fish on top and scatter the spinach over it. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, until the fish is opaque (63°C/145°F) and the spinach has wilted.
- Stir gently, taste and adjust the salt. Remove the chili, or burst it with a spoon if you want more heat.
- Serve hot with rice, funge or mashed green banana.
Tips
- For a darker, more traditional stew, simmer the base with the smoked fish for 2 hours over low heat and add the fresh fish only for the last 10 minutes.
- Smoked fish can be very salty. Soak the pieces in warm water for 10 minutes and taste the stew before adding any more salt.
Questions and answers
Can I use meat instead of fish in calulu?
Yes. Calulu is also made with smoked or fresh chicken, pork or beef. Simmer chicken for 40 minutes, or beef and pork for about 1 1/2 hours, before adding the vegetables.
Where do I find red palm oil?
African and Caribbean grocery stores and online shops sell it. If you cannot find it, use a neutral oil with 1 tsp sweet paprika for color.
Can I make calulu ahead of time?
Yes, it improves overnight. Refrigerate for up to 3 days and reheat gently so the fish does not break up.
How long does it take to make Calulu (São Tomé Smoked Fish and Greens Stew)?
About 1 h 20 min in total: 25 min of preparation and 55 min of cooking.
How many calories are in Calulu (São Tomé Smoked Fish and Greens Stew)?
About 355 kcal per serving, with 33 g of protein, 19 g of carbohydrates and 17 g of fat. These values are estimates.
Nutrition per serving
| Calories | 355 kcal |
|---|---|
| Protein | 33 g |
| Carbohydrates | 19 g |
| Fat | 17 g |
| Fiber | 6 g |
| Sugar | 8 g |
| Sodium | 700 mg |
Estimated values, calculated from the ingredients.
