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Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Garlic Emulsion)

Local name: Bacalao al pil-pil

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In short: Salt cod gently cooked in olive oil with garlic and chili, then swirled into a thick golden emulsion, the signature fish dish of the Basque Country. It takes about 1 h in total and makes 4 servings.

Prep
25 min
Cook
35 min
Resting
36 h
Total
1 h
Servings
4
Difficulty
Challenging
Calories
560 kcal
Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Garlic Emulsion)

Bacalao al pil pil is a Basque classic made from three things: salt cod, olive oil and garlic. The sauce forms when gelatin from the fish is swirled into the warm oil, creating a creamy emulsion without any flour or cream. The name imitates the sound of the oil bubbling softly. It takes patience and a gentle hand, but the technique is easy to learn after one try.

Instructions

  1. Rinse the cod, then soak it skin-side up in cold water in the fridge for 36 to 48 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. Taste a flake: it should be lightly salty, not harsh. Pat dry.
  2. Warm the oil with the garlic and chili in a wide skillet over low heat for 5 minutes, until the garlic is pale gold. Lift out the garlic and chili with a slotted spoon and set aside.
  3. Let the oil cool until it is just warm, about 60°C (140°F). Lay the cod skin-side down in the oil and cook over the lowest heat for 6 minutes, without letting the oil bubble.
  4. Turn the pieces flesh-side down and cook 4 minutes more, until the flesh is opaque and flakes. Milky gelatin will seep out of the cod into the oil. Move the cod to a plate.
  5. Pour the oil into a bowl, leaving the milky liquid in the pan. Let both cool for 5 minutes.
  6. Add the oil back a spoonful at a time, swirling the pan in constant circles (or whisking gently), until the sauce turns thick, pale and creamy like a loose mayonnaise. This takes 8 to 10 minutes.
  7. Return the cod to the pan, skin-side up, and warm gently for 2 minutes. Top with the fried garlic and chili and serve with boiled potatoes.

Tips

  • If the sauce splits, rest the pan for a minute, add a teaspoon of warm water and keep swirling, or whisk gently with a small hand whisk.
  • Thick, skin-on loin cuts hold the most gelatin. Ask a fishmonger for cod that has already been desalted, and cook it within 2 days.

Questions and answers

How long do I soak salt cod?

Thick pieces need 36 to 48 hours in the fridge, with the water changed about every 8 hours. Taste a flake before cooking: it should be pleasantly seasoned, not harsh.

Can I use fresh cod for pil pil?

Fresh cod releases much less gelatin, so the sauce stays thin. Skin-on salt cod, desalted, is the best choice for a proper emulsion.

What do you serve with bacalao al pil pil?

Boiled potatoes, a green salad and bread for the sauce. Roasted piquillo peppers are a classic side in the Basque Country.

How long does it take to make Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Garlic Emulsion)?

About 1 h in total: 25 min of preparation and 35 min of cooking.

How many calories are in Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Garlic Emulsion)?

About 560 kcal per serving, with 37 g of protein, 2 g of carbohydrates and 45 g of fat. These values are estimates.

Nutrition per serving

Calories560 kcal
Protein37 g
Carbohydrates2 g
Fat45 g
Fiber0 g
Sugar0 g
Sodium700 mg

Estimated values, calculated from the ingredients.

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